DAY 6
The Motel owner was so friendly, we spent about an hour putting the world to rights
over complimentary coffee and muffin this morning before continuing our journey.
Visiting the red and white striped Quaddy Head lighthouse on the way, we arrive at Lubec at 11.30.. There was some sort of fair on with stalls lining the street, which we enjoyed and a small train was giving kids rides. We also spotted seals in the harbour (the first and only ones of the trip) and spent quite a while watching them, being upset when some kids arrived and started throwing stones at them at which point we left and made our way to Campobello Island.
The Canadian Border patrolman asked if we had any alcohol and looked perplexed when I answered “half a bottle of wine” so I explained I had only drunk half the bottle I had bought and he let us through.
Our first stop was Roosevelt house. I like the way it is called a summer cottage when it is more like a mansion. There were no tours available so we walked to the beach and in the gardens which were a profusion of colourful dahlias. Next stop was Lupine Lodge for lunch. They had a special of Fish Chowder and breadroll for $6.50 which I tried – it was different, more like lumpy potato soup with fish in than previous chowder I have had. .Service was very slow, but there seemed to be only one server waiting on, taking orders and clearing tables.
Moving on, we found ourselves at Friars Head watching sea eagles fishing. I walked to a view point of the Friars Head, but the trees were too high for any view – apparently it can be seen from Owen House at low tide.
The next stop was the observation decks at Liberty Point where we watched more eagles and my husband swore he saw a whale!! At Little Duck Pond I walked on the beach to the rock pools looking for stars, but there were none.
It was getting late by this time, so we called in Lupine Lodge for a room. They ranged from $100-170 plus tax so we went to look at the ones available. I wanted a water view but thought $170 too much, my husband didn’t like the $100 one which overlooked the carpark and woods beyond – said it was too small and dark, so we declined and departed the island in search of a motel – I was disappointed.
There was a wait at US Border control with the lady officer being very thorough asking questions and looking in the backs and trunks of all vehicles. She asked if we had bought anything, but we hadn’t seen any shops!
Then we were off and our quest for a motel began – there aren’t many in this area, and the ones we saw were closed. We were in a panic again, but headed for Eastport.
We found Motel East in Eastport, just in time to get the last room – others after us were turned away. Situated at the waterside, we were offered a downstairs room with water view which was quite large and very clean, with a fridge, microwave and tv. The “stairs” were great lumps of rock on a slope at the side of the hotel – not really safe. The rate was $105 plus tax.
Within walking distance down the road were three choices for dinner – we chose the Happy Crab Bar and Grill and enjoyed battered shrimp, fries and a beer each.
Imagine my dismay in the morning when we couldn’t see the water for the fog. It did clear enough however for us to see a heron waiting for his breakfast and a lobsterman cleaning his baskets and hand feeding the gulls. This was the real Maine.
Our breakfast was taken at Blue Iris Café which was very cheap. The server said they get a lot of snow up here, sometimes as late as May.
DAY 7
We left at 9am, calling in Calais and lingering by the water to watch the birds and vehicles lining up to cross the border to Canada just across the river.
From Calais we continued on Highway 1 as far as Baring which took us through Moosehorn NWR where at the side of the road was a viewing deck with a chair and binoculars (in UK these binoculars wouldn’t last a day there – someone would have either trashed or stolen them) focused on a Bald Eagle at a nest site and an Osprey further down. In the Reserve were signs warning of Moose and Bear, but we didn’t see any and my husband wouldn’t leave the car to walk “just in case”. I thought we may have seen Loons here.
At Baring we took route 9 to the 193 down to Cherryfield and 182 Scenic Byway, but the rain and mist made it less so, we did see wild turkeys on this route though.
I was desperate to see Stonington (don’t know why) so after rejoining Highway 1 I saw the turnoff which we had missed on our way up and away we went, through Ellsworth, Blue Hill across to Deer Isle and into Stonington. I had Boyces Motel as a possibility and I could see my husband was getting tired so was hoping they would have a vacancy so we didn’t have to drive 40 miles back to the mainland.
Luckily we were given room 1, just across from the office overlooking the street. It wasn’t large, but had a double bed, desk, chair and tv. The linens, bedcover and curtains were all white.
Our evening meal that night was at Fisherman’s Friend Restaurant overlooking the harbour. It was a nice meal, overpriced, but this seemed to be the only one available.
From 4.30am the traffic started with Lobstermen going to work, being early rises this didn’t bother us unduly and as soon as it was light I was out with my camera. Unfortunately it was very foggy that morning and I had to make do with “atmospheric” shots. Again I felt that this was the real Maine.
DAY 8
The next morning as we journeyed south the weather improved and had become warm and sunny by the time we reached Bucksport where we stopped for coffee and muffin which we ate whilst watching Bald Eagles fly overhead. By Lincolnville it was hot, so we took a couple hours break for my husband to sunbathe!
We visited Owl Head Lighthouse and proceeded to Freeport where we looked for accommodation.
The Village Inn had numerous cars in the car park, so I went to ask. As soon as I opened the door and stepped in the hall my worst fears came true – the smell of stale food. The stair carpet also looked dirty. Luckily there was no-one about so I made a hasty retreat and we moved on.
We eventually found the Econolodge, just on the outside of town. Next on the agenda was an evening meal, so we made our way back into town. By this time it was 6.30pm and most places seemed to be closing, except the fine dining restaurants which, due to the “fancy” food, my husband will not eat at. After walking the full length of the main road and back, we saw the Lobster Cooker which was on the point of closing, but still had food available. I would class it as a cafeteria and food is cooked to order which was good, but a bit overpriced. It turned out to be the most expensive meal of our trip – but not the best.
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